Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Along the Utah National Park Highway

Leaving Arches, we drove a stretch of road that would treat us to five National Parks in less than six hundred miles. First up was the needles district of Canyonlands. The short detour off highway 191 into the park turned out to be a long one. The endless canyon was out of this world, but a long series of cattle guards and an extra long wait for some road work to be completed in the hot afternoon sun broke Sierra. He officially lost his marbles and wanted nothing to do with the van as he paced back and forth like a caged animal. Nathalie gave up her front seat and we tried many new arrangements to ease his anxious mind. None seemed to work.

Fortunately, we found a sweet campsite in Glen Canyon, just above the Colorado River and Sierra made it until morning as he relaxed in the dirt and stained his white pelt brick red. He rebounded slightly the next day, but we didn't want to test his fragile state by sightseeing too much in Capitol Reef National Park.

We continued on to Bryce Canyon and managed to do some short hikes into the bowels of the canyon under the famous Thor's Hammer. Bryce's amphitheater of awkwardly sculptured rock spires, or hoodoos, radiate warm yellows and oranges at all hours. It was impressive to see such a drastic change in the landscape after traveling such a short distance.

Last, but not least, we made it to Zion and were greeted by Brooks' dad and sister. It was great to see family and to have them experience life in the van. They gave us a taste of the high life that we left back in the bay area three months ago. We ate and drank like kings and queens and worked off our full bellies each day on Zion's network of trails. The highlight was was slogging back into the narrows. Hiking up the river the canyon walls are 2000 feet high, but in places only 18 feet apart.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Red Rock Playground

Through the center of the Mormon universe, Salt Lake City, we made our way east again to Arches National Park. With one campground inside the park and only 24 total first-come/first-serve sites, Brooks was in line at 4am to secure a spot in the Devil’s Garden. The early morning wake-up call proved to be one of the best choices we’ve made on our trip. Not only did we meet half the campground in line, but we also got the opportunity to pitch our tent amongst the red rock and under the brightest stars imaginable.

Arches might have just set the new standard for National Parks? It’s a photographer’s paradise. At any time of any day you can swivel your head in any direction and see something uniquely beautiful. We hit the famous Delicate Arch for sunset and watched the classic cowboy chaps glow a golden red in the low sun. We watched the sun rise at the Landscape Arch and wondered how its slender long arch has defied gravity for so long.

Ironically, we hiked through the Fiery Furnace at mid-day to avoid the hot afternoon sun. It’s a trail-less maze of towering sandstone needles where the giant red walls close in over your head. We crawled and squeezed through cracks less than 12 inches wide that opened up entirely new labyrinths to explore on the other side. Curiosity lured us deeper into the furnace as you always wanted to know what lay behind the next turn.

We had an amazing time in the Moab area. We hiked our hearts content and Hairy relaxed in Karen's Canine Campground. He played so hard with his new best friend, a one year old border collie, that we had to pry him out of his air conditioned cabin when we picked him up. Our final night in Arches, he slept from 8pm until 10am without even readjusting his position

Saturday, September 20, 2008

An Hour in Idaho

Trying to outrun the storm that was crashing down on Jackson Hole, we hit Highway 89 and made way for Utah. The silver dollar-sized rain drops stopped and we poked out ahead of the rain clouds at Bear Lake, the part of Idaho that turns into Utah in the blink of the eye. This lakeside cottage almost crumbled as the sun-soaked cloud exploded with color behind it.

The Great Parks

The northwest corner of Wyoming is home to two of the oldest and most well known National parks around, Yellowstone and Teton. Up and over Granite Pass and down through the winding red canyon of the Big Horn National Wilderness, we arrived at the Eastern entrance to Yellowstone. We thought our mid-September arrival would mean fewer crowds, but as soon as we hit Yellowstone Lake, without even noticing, we had inadvertently joined a large caravan of RVs and other slow moving passenger vehicles.

We spent three days in the park jumping from geysers to hot springs to rivers to lakes. Up the continental divide and back down into a deep canyon. There’s not another place like it in the world. The colors of the geyser basins, bubbling mud pits and steaming ground make you feel like you’re on a different planet.

We fished, but the Yellowstone trout proved to smart for our woven flies. We woke up before the sun to see a wolf pack nibbling on an elk carcass, but they were too stubborn to come out for us. We hurried to Old Faithful, but searched too long for a shady parking spot for the dog and missed the eruption. Good thing it’s the only predictable schedule in the park and we returned an hour later to see the next go ‘round.

South to the Tetons, the mountains glistened in the warm sun which provided a splendid back drop for our first lunch there. However, looming thunderstorms later played tricks on the majestic peaks. As the wind picked up, dark clouds swirled around the mountain tops and lingered just long enough to provide some heavy contrast to the setting sun.

Camped at Signal Mountain, we woke up before the sun again and it proved to be a good decision this time. Dodging herds of giant elk in the weak morning light, we made it to a crusty old barn just before the Tetons disappeared behind the clouds for the rest of the day…

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Cabin Fever

Sierra came down with a serious case of cabin fever over the past week. No matter how much time he got to spend outside the van, he never wanted to come back in. We had to bribe him with cheese and jerky to make the leap of faith back into his seat. He was visibly disgruntled and often times he would just stare at the door in hopes that it would fly open as we drove. He also bullied his way into the front seat, so he could share Nathalie's window.

As a result, we did something that we should have done a long time ago. We ripped out the screen window in the back and cleared off the rear facing seat so he could get a taste of the good life without having to sit on one of our laps. As you can see, the dog is happy again and back to his old self. Hopefully it lasts until California.

The Best Detour

Having heard little about the state, South Dakota had a good chance at exceeding our expectations from the moment we arrived. However, even if we had high hopes, the Mt. Rushmore State would have over delivered on anything that any guide book or brochure had promised. We came to see some old presidents carved into a mountain, and found a slice of country that is almost unmatched. In the south western corner we visited, there is so much to see, it’s a hard place to leave.

After watching the sunrise upon the colossal faces of Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln, we traveled through the Black Hills and gazed at the massive boulders that seem to shoot straight up out of the forest. We took the twisted highway 16 through Custer State Park, known for its coiled wooden “pigtail” bridges and skinny tunnels that pierce through some giant slabs of granite.
We spent a day in Wind Cave National Park, featuring 129 miles of cave cramped under only one square mile of earth. The cave has only one natural entrance that the average American definitely would not fit through. We explored just two miles of Wind Cave and reached a depth of over 200 feet. Although the park is known for its vast underground network, the surface is also spectacular. Bison, pronghorn antelope, white tail deer and prairie dogs roamed the grasslands by the hundreds.
We capped off our time in South Dakota with Badlands National Park, where a hundred miles of South Dakota’s dry plains is abruptly interrupted by fantastic pinnacles and deep canyons of colorful petrified rock. Leaving the state, we were treated to an incredible sunset to the west and a full moon rising into the dark blue sky to the east.

Looks like Wyoming will have some big shoes to fill…

Sunday, September 14, 2008

South Dakota Ladies Man

We've arrived in South Dakota, the sun is shinning and George is looking as handsome as ever. As Washington stared off in the distance, Nathalie tried to steal a kiss. Not sure if our first president was too happy about it?

Now, we're going to check out his other three buddies (Tom, Theo & Abe) and then venture off through the Black Hills into the Badlands...

Across Montana to Familiar Faces

From Missoula to Billings we drove straight through the heart of the 100 years storm. It rained so hard and was so dark, we were more than relieved to arrive at the home of our cousins, Cabeto & Amber, before our windshield wipers flew off.

We enjoyed two nights in Billings and the kind hospitality of family. Cabeto's mom, Charo, was visiting from Peru as well, which made for the perfect reunion. We watched Adriana inch towards her first steps just as Cabeto cast his first fly into Rock Creek.

In all, it was great to catch up, but tough to pull away from good company and a warm bed. Sierra was also sad to leave his new pal Cuzco and the comforts of a large back yard behind. We packed up, kissed Montana good-bye and drove off towards South Dakota.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

The Albatross & The Jackpot

Our arrival in Missoula, Montana sparked a series of memorable events for us. A surprise visit to Boomers (our friend James' bar) paid immediate dividends with Nathalie rolling a Yahtzee to win the $486 jackpot. The beer flowed like wine and the two of us over-indulged in Pabst Blue Ribbon, mozzarella sticks and buffalo wings. That made the brain a little slow to react when the following morning we woke up to a vagrant stealing our flip-flops and Sierra getting a ticket for being off-leash.

An afternoon round of golf seemed to be a good idea for Brooks to pass his first hangover in months. The round itself wasn't brilliant, but the 515 yard 16th hole sure was. A 314 yard drive and a 201 yard 4-iron granted Brooks his first ever albatross. A two on a par 5, in his new par of lucky flip-flops and not so fancy rental clubs. His emotional high was short lived, however, as he scored a 6 on the par 3 17th hole and returned to his regular form.

Monday, September 8, 2008

Back in the Mother Country

We've bid farewell to our friendly neighbors from the North and rolled back into the lower 48. Celebrating our homecoming, we drove up and over Going to the Sun Road and nestled into the heart of Glacier National Park .

With Montana's endless supply of rivers and lakes, we quickly replaced our daily hikes with fishing. It wasn't long before Nathalie landed the trip's trophy fish at Rainy Lake, a two plus pound cut-throat trout with brilliant rainbow colors that glistened in the first sun we've seen in weeks. Photographic evidence of this catch was denied as Brooks reached for the frying pan instead of the camera and Nathalie hurried to let the big guy swim free. This brief altercation put Hairy and Brooks in a foul mood for the rest of the morning. They got no fish and an earful of "Nathalie is a great fisherwoman" all the way to Missoula.

Since being back in the lower 48 always seemed so far away, we never actually picked up a map and nailed down a route south. Such indecisiveness resulted in another detour from the journey we envisioned. Looks like we're headed to South Dakota now...

We've posted more pics to the end of our Canada album and started a Montana album. Check them out by clicking here.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Backcountry Hiking

The weather man predicted a low of 21 and a high of 50 with a combination of rain and snow. That forecast was for the town of Field, B.C. (over 2000 ft. below where Brooks and Sierra were camping for three days). We got our first two snow falls of the summer and a nice dusting of freezing rain. In all, we logged over 35 miles of back country trails in three days and got to spend some quality daddy/doggy time along the way.

In hindsight, Brooks made only one costly mistake during their time on the trail. Against his instincts, he decided to carry 10 hot dogs and two pounds of beef jerky for Sierra in lieu of his normal dog food. That lapse in good judgement, resulted in the dog having the worst gas of all time. And to make matters worse, Sierra broke trail every day and occupied half of the duo's small tent each night. On the bright side, maybe it kept the bears away at least?